A conversation with Fabrizio

Ein Gespräch mit Fabrizio
The three brothers Fabrizio, Andrea and Paolo run the historic Mulino Cavanna in Dronero, where traditional craftsmanship is still very much alive. Natural stone millstones and a water-powered drive ensure gentle processing, just as in times past.

In this blog series, we introduce you to our partners and suppliers.

Today, Fabrizio tells us about their work. Because what many guests at Locanda Mistral don't know is that our bread and focaccia are baked fresh every day by Manuela and her kitchen team. The flour we use comes from Mulino Cavanna and is the result of true craftsmanship and carefully selected ingredients. Traditional stone milling preserves all the nutrients of the grain. We focus on quality over quantity and are proud to have been working with Mulino Cavanna for years, allowing us to offer our guests bread and other products made in harmony with nature and tradition.

Dear Fabrizio, thank you for your time and your collaboration.

 

Can you tell us something about yourself and Mulino Cavanna? 

Because we needed our own flour for our biscuit bakery in Villar San Costanzo, we started milling ourselves a few decades ago. Thanks to an experienced master miller, I was fortunate enough to learn an ancient and valuable craft: one that has become somewhat forgotten today, but remains very important. We realised that stone milling preserves the germ of the grain. This added value allowed us to make a real difference, thanks to nutrients that industrial flours simply don't have. Over time, that has paid off despite the higher costs. Quality is thankfully recognised by discerning consumers.

 

What makes Mulino Cavanna so special and how long have you been running it? 

Our mill is called "Mulino della Riviera" – quite an interesting name when you consider where it's located. It sits in a very sheltered hollow right in the centre of Dronero, where you can see lemon, banana and olive trees growing outdoors. Its history dates back to the 15th century and extends to the present day. A rare example of resilience across the centuries. We purchased and restored the mill in the early 2000s after 30 years of abandonment. We believed in its potential and preserved the old millstones and, above all, the hydraulic drive with its large paddle wheels.

 

How has the miller's trade changed over the years and what has stayed the same? 

Over the years, we've noticed that consumers have become more aware. Product labels are finally being read carefully, and flour, as one of the most fundamental ingredients, has finally received the attention it deserves. In the 1980s, people only talked about Tipo 00 flour. Today, Tipo 1 and Tipo 2 are preferred over more heavily refined flours. On top of that, so-called minor grains like spelt, rye and buckwheat have regained importance. What thankfully hasn't changed is the dedication and commitment to a staple of our cuisine.

 

What three things should our readers not miss in Valle Maira?

  1. First and foremost, we depend on the water of the Torrente Maira, which rises at the fascinating springs near Saretto. A must-see!
  2. From a nature perspective, the mountain lakes of Valle Maira are well worth a visit. Each one is different, framed by pristine, wild landscapes.
  3. All of these treasures are accessible via a truly wonderful network of trails that branch out across the entire valley, connecting corners of nature still waiting to be discovered. On foot, by bike, or on skis.

     

Sustainability is a core concern at Locanda Mistral. What does sustainability mean to you? And how does it influence your products? 

Sustainability is at the heart of our work. For us, sustainability means: a mill powered by water; grain grown locally and irrigated with the same water that drives the mill; promoting biodiversity by cultivating old, indigenous varieties; passing on and keeping alive an ancient craft like that of the miller; and through stone milling, maintaining full control over the production chain and being able to tailor the grind precisely to each baked product.

What do you wish for the future of Valle Maira?

Ihope that other restaurateurs and operators, just like you at Locanda Mistral, will put local products in the spotlight and highlight the distinctive qualities that are typical of this area. The synergy between the various players along the value chain brings added value to the entire valley.

To close: Is there anything you'd like to say to our readers? 

To close, I'd like to invite our readers to come and visit Valle Maira. For me, as for other producers, raw ingredients and tradition matter most. So I invite visitors to become aware of the richness that the valley offers (gastronomically, environmentally and culturally) and to help preserve its authenticity.

 

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